Close Coupled WC

A Statement Close Coupled WC

The close coupled toilet design is one of the most popular options, and is available in contemporary and traditional designs. From curvaceous, to angular or vintage, you can be sure that this style will suit any bathroom. These toilets are also available as corner varieties.

Key things to look out for:

Soft close toilet seats:This will protect both the seat and the toilet itself from harsh knocks or scratches.

Water Inlet: As some toilets have a dedicated left or right sided inlet only, make sure you consider this when planning the placement of the toilet in your bathroom. Other designs allow an inlet on both sides, leaving more freedom at the planning stage.

Overflow: The majority of cisterns now have an internal overflow tube. All BathEmpire toilets feature this as standard.

Back to Wall WC

This toilet is designed to be installed in conjunction with a backing cabinet. In addition to the backing furniture, you will also have to purchase a concealed cistern (or internal flush system). This is to replace the traditional connected cistern, and is smartly located within the furniture unit.

For bathrooms with more space, you can install matching furniture units. For space saving designs, combined vanity furniture featuring a back to wall toilet is available is a great option.

The Wall Hung WC
The wall hung WC is similar to a back to wall toilet, except that the pan is designed to have no contact with the floor. By having all pipework concealed within a minimalist unit, these designs create an upmarket, modern look.

Key things to look out for:

Dual Flush Technology:Water saving is all the rage these days, and this will allow you to conserve water by choosing a smaller (c. 3 litre) or larger (c. 6 litre) flush.

Low Level WC and High Level WC

Another option available from other retailers are low and high level toilets. The cistern is placed at a higher level than with close coupled toilets, and connected to the main pan by a flush pipe. The High Level toilets are usually operated by a chain flush, while the Low Level varieties feature the standard lever.

With High Level WCs, as the cistern is installed nearer to ceiling height, the bathroom must therefore be of a fair size to take advantage of such a presence. Nevertheless, these styles are ideal if a traditional look is to be created.

There are a range of chemical cleaners available on the market; however there are concerns about their negative impact on the quality of indoor air. The use of these cleaners can cause skin irritation, and unfortunately carcinogens – any substance directly involved in causing cancer – can constitute some of the key ingredients.

In addition to this, with some makes of shower enclosure (such as the EasyClean cubicles) it is not advisable to use chemical cleaners. This is because they damage the special cleaning coating, and the extended use of such cleaners will ensure that you will not see the benefit of the expensive nanotechnology.

The cleanliness of the enclosure can also be dependent on the type of water which you have in your area. For example, soap doesn’t lather as well in hard water, and it can leave behind a light scum on the shower surfaces. And not only will the shower enclosure glass need cleaning, but the tiles, grout and drains may also need some attention. Below, if you follow our steps, you can make a multi-purpose cleaner in a matter of minutes.

Walk-In Shower Enclosure for Alcove, with a special EasyClean coating, from BathEmpire

The Easy Single Solution

1. Mix the above ingredients, with two parts of baking soda, with one part vinegar; lemon juice can be used as an alternative to vinegar.

2. Mix this into a thick paste, and apply with a damp, warm cloth. This mixture can be used on shower doors, sinks, as well as tiles and grout; to apply to grout, rub in with a toothbrush.

3. Leave on all affected surfaces for at least 10 minutes, then rub with a sponge. As you rinse this off, the benefit will pass to the drains.

This is a quick, simple solution that will let you cross commercial cleaners off your shopping list permanently!

Preparation:

So, you should have your shower tray fitted completely. It should be installed flush with the floor and wall, fully sealed, and the waste should drain water away
without issue. If required, your concealed shower can also be installed at this stage, as you can have better access to the cavity behind the plaster wall. The walls should be tiled, or if you haven’t chosen tiling, then cladded using an appropriate waterproof material.

Step 1: Fit the Wall Edge Compensators

Place the wall edge compensators against the wall, and mark where you need to drill the two screws into the metal.

Next, place the wall channels on the tray, and using a spirit level, mark where you would need to drill the tile, avoiding tile edges.

Complete all drilling, and affix the compensators firmly to the wall.

Step 2: Assembly

The enclosure doors come fully assembled, so only require the handles to be screwed into the glass.

Most enclosures are reversible, but there are some styles such as the sliding shower enclosures, in which the placement of the door is fixed for either left or right hand opening. In these cases, take care to install the handles on the correct side of the glass!

Step 3: Simply Slot the Enclosure Together

Fit all the glass panels and doors into place. The side edge compensators allow you to align the doors to be perfectly straight, as the side walls may not form a 90 degree angle with the floor.

Once you’ve checked and are happy that all the panels are aligned evenly, slot and screw into place, starting at the bottom.

Sliding Shower Enclosure with EasyClean Glass, from BathEmpire

Stage 4: Complete the Finishing Touches

You can now add chrome dome caps to hide the screws, and attach the central covering to the top of the enclosure.

Stage 5: Silicone Sealant

Using a good quality silicone sealant, all that is left to do is to seal the edge of the enclosure; if you can, try to maintain an unbroken flow of sealant.

A contemporary enclosure, freshly tiled and fully sealed.

Having read our previous entries, you should now be well on your way to having chosen your shower enclosure. Hinged, bi-fold, or quadrant…whatever your style, you now know the design most suited for you.

But before you storm ahead to install your shower enclosure, there may be some preparation that you need to undertake, to make sure that installing the final enclosure is a breeze.

Prevent Leaks

The first item that must be installed correctly is the shower tray, as this is the base upon which the shower enclosure will rest.

Have you ever known a soggy downstairs ceiling and been confused as to the cause of the problem? Well, the most common cause of such an issue is a leak originating from the shower tray. An incorrectly installed shower tray will ultimately result in leaks. Most modern stone trays feature a core stone layer which is then capped with a layer of white acrylic. These trays are significantly stronger than previous incarnations which featured a fibreglass resin core.

Wear and tear is often the reason that the once pristine seals break down or split. The easiest way to replace the sealant is to purchase a silicone sealant remover, which would be available from most DIY stores. This will take away the bulk of the old sealant, and simply leave you to replace, preferably using a single bead of sealant.

If you want further details, you can check out our shower tray installation guide, dedicated to installing BathEmpire shower trays.

Ensure the Tray is Level

Over time, the shower tray can subside and sit at an angle, so take a spirit level and check the tray. It is better to get a level tray now to ensure that the enclosure will stand straight.

Also take the opportunity to ensure that all waste fittings are correctly screwed in and fully watertight. Also check that a slight angle remains in the shower waste so the water will flow away without issue.

Check The Tiling

Once the tray is secure, feel free to tile the remaining walls; it is always advisable to tile after the installation of the tray. If you are keeping the existing tiles, then check for holes in the grout. Water and steam can penetrate these areas, and cause damp problems to the plaster wall behind. Not only would such damage warrant a large amount money to fix, but also your health will be harmed when breathing in the mould spores caused by the humid conditions. Do not hesitate to re-grout your tiles; if you need more information, see our blog post on how to re-grout your tiles.

Folding Door: (Bi-Fold)
In these enclosures, the door folds in the middle and slides to the side, always opening inwards; these provide a great space saving option.

Sliding Door: (Sliding, Quadrant)
The sliding shower doors provide complete ease of opening. While the Quadrant styles are ideally placed to make the most of the corner of rooms, because generally the doors open from a central position. The Sliding styles are designed for slightly larger bathrooms (the largest enclosure extends to 1400mm in width).

Hinged Door: (Pivot)
The hinged door provides a sturdy, wide opening to the enclosure.

No Door: (Wet Room, Walk-In)
With no moving parts, these enclosures provide an open finish. The Walk-In enclosure can be installed with a tray, or installed as an alternative to the Wet Room.

Corner or Alcove?
You also have two options when installing a new enclosure. You can install a corner enclosure, which features the door and side panel in any corner of your bathroom.

Alternatively, with just a door panel, you can convert any bathroom alcove into an enclosure. Instead of using these areas for storage, purchase a tray to fit the space, and let the single door panel cover the length completely. Should you wish to add an alcove in an existing bathroom, simply construct a stud wall in the desired location.

A Bi-Fold Shower Enclosure, installed in an alcove.

These are some key things to look out for when buying a shower enclosure:

Quality of the glass – Always look out for tempered shower glass, as the manufacturing process heats and cools the glass several times. This provides an incredibly strong safety glass which should meet BS6202 standards.

Quality fittings – Molten metal is forced into a cavity at high pressure, and this is known as solid die casting. When this is done in a single mould, a quality fitting is produced as there is less chance of breakage.

Metal rollers – Too many shower enclosures have a single roller attachment. However, problems can occur if the roller detaches itself. A better solution is to have both rollers attach themselves on the top and bottom of the door to prevent such accidents.

Sliding Shower Enclosure with Dagna Concealed Shower, from BathEmpire

In this new e-series, we are going to take a closer look at the humble shower enclosure. Once shunned for a relaxing bath, the convenience and comfort of the enclosure has seen a fast growth in popularity, with some people even choosing to replace their bath with a new enclosure. Over the next few weeks, we will be covering:

Episode 1: Introduction to Shower Enclosures
We will look at the different types of shower enclosure that are currently available on the market, to allow you to decide the style best suited to your circumstances.

Episode 2: Shower Enclosures – Great Installation Tips
In this episode, we will highlight some key tips for installing a new enclosure, including all the preparation needed for your bathroom.

Episode 3: How to Install an Enclosure
Now that you have all the info and advice, you’ll be ready for a step by step guide to installing your new enclosure.

Episode 4: The Aftermath
With your new shower and enclosure up and running, what are the best ways to keep it clean and sparkling? We will cover the best chemical-free shower cleaners, and offer advice on the newest technology!

Wet Room Glass

Quadrant Shower Enclosure

When you are planning a dedicated shower area, make the best possible use of the space you have available. A standard shower enclosure would measure in the region of 800mm square. Although this will give a snug enclosure, the difference it makes to add just another 100mm on each dimension is remarkable. So if you can, plan to squeeze in as much space as possible.

Now, if you are looking for a shower enclosure, then how do you know which style to go for?

Pivot Shower Enclosure with Dagna Concealed Shower Kit, from BathEmpire

Bi-Fold: These dooors are versatile, and can be classed as space saving doors. This is becasue they fold inwards, and require no extra space.

Pivot: Unlike the Bi-Fold which folds in the middle, the Pivot has a hinged door. These ensure a wide opening; as the door opens outwards, ensure you have enough space in the centre of the room.

Sliding: These are an alternative to the Bi-Fold doors, and cater for larger alcoves (up to 1400mm in length).

Quadrant: Another alternative style, these are designed to make the most of the corner of rooms.

If you have an awkward recess to fill, you can consider purchasing a door; for corner enclosures, include a side panel with the door. And don’t forget a tray of the right size.

If you decide to keep your bath, it is worth investing in a dedicated bath shower mixer; the more practical styles available include a thermostatic control. This allows for effective temperature regulation, and can prevent scalding, especially with younger members of the household.

A glass shower screen attached to the side of the bath, instead of a shower curtain, will allow you to make the most of the space available. And it will also avoid the uncomfortable ‘cling’ of a shower curtain.

If you would like more help or advice in choosing your ideal bathroom, feel free to get in touch!

PS: We currently have a sale on, for 3 days only, so grab a bargain quick!

Oshi Basin Mixer Tap, from BathEmpire

To help you make the right choice, we have listed the following steps and to help narrow down the options available:

Overall Style
Firstly, look at the overall decoration and style of the wider bathroom, and select a tap accordingly. A sleek chrome mixer tap, such as the Khone Basin Mixer Tap, would be a better option than trying to push a traditional style on a modern bathroom.

The Shape
It is always a good idea to match the shape of taps. So, if you are going for a bathroom with a rounded style overall, then match it with rounded taps. Similarly, if the shower head and bathroom suite have an angular design, make sure you purchase square taps. Generally, for traditionally styled showers, rounded bathroom designs suit better.

Bath or Shower Bath?
For the bath, there are a few more options – separate bath taps, bath shower mixers, and overflow fillers.

Basically, the bath shower mixers have a hand held shower outlet option connected to the main tap valve. The alternative to these are the bar mixer valves, or bar shower mixer valves; the only difference is that the bar shower mixers are thermostatic (only allowing the hot water temperature to reach 38 degrees Celsius). If you prefer, you can manually override this feature to allow hotter showers.

Overflow fillers can be fitted to straight baths; because you can use them to fill the bath, you will not need to purchase bath taps to install onto the bath. The overflow filler will let water trickle into the bath, and there are many styles available, some even with pop-up wastes. These fillers are great for a contemporary, minimalist finish.

Ease of Use
One thing you must look at is who is most likely to use the taps. If you have young children, or elderly persons using the bathroom who may have difficulty turning the tap on, then look for a lever operated tap. Another factor to look out for is ceramic disc technology. These ceramic discs have replaced the rubber washers, and so will prevent tight taps. A little consideration before the purchase ensures that everyone will be able to use the bathroom with ease!

What will you need?

• Flat head screwdriver.
• A flat head or adjustable spanner.
• New rubber washers.
• Small cloth, or toilet roll.

And finally, remember the phrase ‘lefty loosy, righty tighty,’ so you know which way to turn the valves!

Victoria Traditional Basin Mixer Tap, from BathEmpire

Stage 1
The fist step is to turn the water off, and this can be done by locating and twisting the controlling valve. Then, test to see if this has been successful; the remaining water in the tap body should drip out slowly.

Once you are sure that all connected water sources have run dry, put the plug in to avoid losing anything down the drain.

Stage 2
Next, prise open the tap handle, which will expose the valve body.

Stage 3
Take a piece of cloth or a small bit of loo roll and cover the tap spout to prevent any damage to the chrome. Then, using an adjustable spanner, twist the valve until it is loose.

This will now expose the tap washer on the bottom that we need to change.

Stage 4
Undo the small nut on the bottom, prise out the washer, and in the insert place in the new tap washer.

Make sure you always place the washer the flat side down, and screw the retaining nut back on.

Stage 5
Now, wipe the valve down with some wire wool to remove any limescale that may have built up. It may also be a good idea to do the same with the inside of the tap.

The cause of the leaks - a split rubber washer.

Stage 6
Now that the hard work has been done, reassemble the tap in reverse order, and turn the water back on.

Stage 7
Finally, test to see if the tap has stopped leaking, and grab a beer for successfully obliterating the problem!

However, if you want to make replacing washers a thing of the past, then look at any BathEmpire contemporary tap, as they feature ceramic disc technology.

At BathEmpire, we offer three distinct types of shower to fit within your shower enclosure:

• Concealed Shower Kits
• Exposed Shower Kits
• Bar Shower Kits

If you are installing a straight or shower bath, then you may also consider purchasing a bath shower mixer tap instead.

Concealed
With our concealed shower kits, all the pipework is concealed behind the wall. Only the chrome valve, and shower head and shower arm will be visible.

A range of sizes and styles are available by searching the Concealed Kits section on the website. However, if none of these meet your fancy, we also offer the option for you to construct your own concealed shower.

The key components of a concealed shower kit are a:

• Concealed Valve
• Shower Head
• Shower Arm

Onto this base, you can install a number of additional outlets, such as a hand held shower head, shower jets, or a bath filler. The concealed mixer valve you purchase will depend on the number of secondary devices you wish to include.

Chrome Effect Shower Head, from BathEmpire.

Lightweight
We also offer a range of chrome effect shower heads; these are specially constructed from a polymer to form a lightweight shower head. The range of designs are wider than those available in the solid brass shower head range. With the lightweight nature, they will put less stress on your plaster wall.

These shower heads are fully compatible with any valve and shower arm, and the chrome effect finish will blend perfectly with other chrome plated units.

Exposed
With the Exposed kits, most of the pipe work is not hidden. The exposed kits at BathEmpire all consist of a bar shower valve, a hand held shower head and the main chrome shower head.

The individual styling, such as an LED shower head, or a curved or straight shower arm is left to individual choice!

Bar Shower
The final shower option are the Bar Shower Kits. These kits all consist of a wall mounted valve and hand held shower head. All our kits are thermostatic, and are TMV2 certified. This means the valve will cap the maximum temperature of the hot water, ensuring safety for the whole family.